So since I last updated the blog, I’ve made a ton of changes and progress on the stryfe. When I first planned it out I wasn’t intending to do any painting or majors changes. It was going to be a 3d printed Kriss Vector replica. However I wasn’t a fan of the final look as it looked rather bulky and orange. So I decided to make some changes to the plan.
- Only use some of the kriss vector kit, ditching the mag cover and stock.
- Paint the main blaster red with a black grip.
- Remove the IMR based setup and replace it with a proper lipo setup.
- Get more tacticool bits, because clearly it needed more.
Step 1 was to order a ton of bits from Taobao as they take a long time to arrive. I then ordered some battery bits and bobs from Hobbyking.
Step 2 was to start attacking the battery tray with my dremel to free up room for the new battery.
Step 3 was to get painting. As I had practiced on some firestrikes and a jolt I was confident in how I was going to get it done to my satisfaction.
I used a lot of really light coats to build up the layers of paint slowly. Spraying too much in one go results in losing detail and a bad end result. I use a box to contain the parts and paint as much as possible.
After the final coats of Plastikote Matt Red, I then set to work detailing it with enamel paints and a brush. I was very happy with how it turned out.
For the triggers and other parts I went for a silver finish as a contrast. I’m very pleased with how it turned out. I left the bits that won’t be visible as orange for speed. It also allows me to make it much more toy looking if I ever want to use it more publicly.
Next up I had to wire in the new Lipo system. I went with an combination alarm and digital display, but at present it’s not fitting in place. I will have to come up with a solution to this soon.
The battery cover just fits in place with the battery in and the plastic ridges dremel’d off the battery cover.
By now my Taobao order had arrived with some new goodies.
- Folding Worker stock mount and CTR adjustable stock
- Worker aluminium silencer and flasher
- Worker 12 round Mag’s with puller
- Finally a little something special. A new aluminium foregrip. It’s a stunning bit of kit and I love it. It even has a space inside for spare batteries.
- I had some other trinkets in the order such as MBUS sites and a sling. Along with parts for my rapidstrike and demolisher builds.
I could now set to work assembling the blaster, I was exceedingly happy with the end result. It has some serious weight to it now!
It looks very different to how it last looked.
Here is a video of it in action
The final spec’s/parts are as follows:
18 AWG Rewire
2 x Rhino MTB Motors
2S Zippy Compact 850 battery
All locks removed
Gavinfuzzy 3d Printed Mag release.
Worker Aluminium flasher and silencer.
Worker 12 Pmag with puller.
Worker battery thumbscrew
Worker folding stock
F10555 3D Printed top rail
F10555 3D Printed side rail
F10555 3D Printed bottom rail
F10555 3D Kriss Vector front section
Viking Tactics Ultralight Vertical Grip
TrustFire LED Gun Tactical Flashlight
I hope you like the end result as much as me.
I bought it before xmas as my first mechanical keyboard. It was originally a German ISO keyboard Cherry Red. I used a UK ISO PBT keycap set from ducky as a start. I then added some PBT doubleshot keycaps from Massdrop.
Other additions are my lego keycap that I made, a red aluminium spacebar and newly arrived today was a Holyoops backspace key.
I want to get a silver aluminium case and red cable from Pexonpcs then it will be finished… maybe
So, it’s been quite some time since I have updated this thread. I have made some progress on the bike. However not as much as I’ve hoped for. It’s still not on the road, but closer than ever!
The major issue has been some wiring gremlins. Some caused by me and some caused by some shoddy work in the past. I got a couple of wires wrong when hooking up the new controls, which I fixed quite quickly. However there was a very bad short which caused smoke to appear from near the speedo and fry the main fuse. After much poking around with the multimeter I realised that the speedo wiring was to blame. I found a really awful mess of cables hidden under some tape. Really really shoddy work, some of which was touching the frame of the headlamp and causing a short. So instead of waiting to fit the new speedo I’ve ripped out the old dials and wiring and started doing it now, as the wiring would have taken ages to fix properly.
Next up I needed to create a bracket to mount the new speedo in place.
Here it is as it sits now, it needs painting and preparing, but I’m very happy with it.
The other major job ticked off the list is the seat. With the superb skills of my wife the seat is now fully in place. It was a pig to fit, but I’m really happy with how it looks.
Seat being fitted
The seat is in place.
Got to make sure to start the little un on bikes as young as possible!
The next week or two is time for me to do some other wiring jobs. I need to wire up the new speedo and get that working. I also need to replace the current fuse box as it’s in terrible shape.
I’ve picked up this blade style fuse box to replace it with
That and the other wiring I’ve done will fix the headlamp issues I’ve been having. I’ve managed to fit a relay that fixes my led indicators which was one more job done.
Well, I’ve not had a chance to do very much on the bike, as we’ve had a more important addition to the family
He’s taken a bit of focus away from the bike for some reason 😀
What I have been doing is fighting the mirrors wiring. The mirrors are supposed to be attached inside the bars, but they just don’t work very well. They come loose all the time. I tried various mirrors, but in the end realised the best method was to attach them around the bars and shift everything else inward. This leaves a hole in the bar end which I picked up some Hope Bar Doctors from the cycle shop. They were a nightmare to fit due to the bars, but I have one side in okish.
The other side will wait until I fit the new throttle.
Next up I’ve been wanting to fit a replacement clutch cable as the original one was far too long and frankly dangerous. After reading a tip on here that the z1 was a good fit, I swapped them over. Getting the sprocket cover off was a little bit tricky, but I got it done in the end.
I’ve been wiring up the rear lights and indicators which I think I’m on the third different way of doing it now. I was going to use waterproof connectors, but these just end up looking messy. So I’m just going to solder and sheath them all instead.
Next target is to get the wiring done and tested, then to try to find a time with my wife and the baby so that I can finish my seat cover.
Well, I’ve had an interesting couple of weeks, but I’ve made more progress on the bike. Not nearly as much as I hoped for but at least it’s moving forwards.
The indicators I ordered to go with the headlight brackets have arrived and I think they are going to look ace.
I’ve been making up a bracket for the rear lights and indicators along with the number plate. I’ve also after ordering four sets of indicators found some that didn’t look cheap and nasty. They are cnd’d and look good. I need to sort the wiring out for them though.
After this I have continued work on the seat. First order of business was to paint the seat base. It will be mostly be hidden from view, but I wanted to make it black like the other parts.
I then glued the seat foam into position using spray on contact adhesive. I used tape to hold the foam in place whilst it dried. I was worried that the glue wouldn’t work to well but it was great.
I then took an angle grinder with sanding disc to shape the foam. I thought this would be a nightmare, but it wasn’t too bad. I have quite chuffed with the results.
The other item I’ve been working on is getting a replacement set of gauges. As I would like to clean up the front a lot more. I was looking at Motogadget ones, but they are a little bit too expensive. Also the ones I liked didn’t have both a rev and speedometer. So in the end I went for a Koso DB-01R which ticked most of the boxes for me. Of being small, but having all the features.
It came with a mount to attached to the handlebars, but on my bars it isn’t going to work as you can probably tell from these pictures. Where the cable needs to go is right where the brackets are. So I will have to create some kind of mount so that I can attach it. I will wait until I remove the original gauges to decide where best to mount it.
Another job that I have completed is the battery bracket. It is now painted black and has a rubber base to keep the battery
I took a really quick shot of Clevedon beach and pier yesterday on my iPhone and it’s amazing how it came out.
Click on the image for the full sized version
I’ve not really had a chance for doing any modding for some years, but I couldn’t resist the urge to pick up a raspberry PI a while back. My intention to was have a play and try to make a nice case. What I did in the end is use a Megablocks Porsche as a basis for the case. I had to do a bit of tweaking and drilling to get the cable routing, but it was very quick in the end.
The process was quite simple, strip out all the extra bricks and create some kind of mounting for the board.
Cable routing was a pain, but I just managed to squeeze it into place. I plan to run it headless, but if I need to connect anything up I just open the doors.
The Raspberry Pi is an awesome bit of kit. I added a wireless card and some nice blue heatsinks.
You can see how I mounted the board. I used some plastic standoffs glued into 2×1 lego tiles with a central hole. Works perfectly and allows the board to be removed in seconds.
The Porsche was on offer at only £9.99 so was a bit of a steal. You can see it here on their website: Megablocks Porsche
A couple more pics of the bike.